Asakusa Rairaiken: What Did Ramen Taste Like in 1910?
What did ramen taste like more than 100 years ago? That’s exactly what Rairaiken (來々軒) in Tokyo’s Asakusa neighborhood is trying to answer.
Originally opened in 1910, Rairaiken is widely regarded as one of Japan’s earliest and most influential ramen restaurants. After disappearing for decades, the legendary shop returned to Asakusa in July 2026, serving a carefully researched reconstruction of its original shoyu ramen.
I recently visited, and the bowl was unlike any shoyu ramen I’ve had before.
The History Behind Rairaiken
Rairaiken opened in 1910, when founder Kan’ichi Ozaki brought 12 Chinese cooks from Yokohama’s Chinatown to Asakusa.
While Chinese noodle dishes already existed in Japan, Rairaiken helped popularize a soy sauce-based version that would eventually become the foundation of Tokyo-style shoyu ramen.
The original Asakusa restaurant closed during World War II, and after operating elsewhere in Tokyo, Rairaiken eventually shut down in 1976.
Decades later, the Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum took on the ambitious task of bringing it back.
Working with the founder’s descendants, the museum spent years researching historical ingredients, cooking techniques, and firsthand accounts. A reconstructed Rairaiken opened at the museum in 2020, before the restaurant finally returned to Asakusa in 2026.
Reconstructing Ramen from 1910
There’s no surviving complete recipe from 1910, so the modern bowl is based on historical research rather than an exact original formula.
The signature Hyakunen Shoyu Raumen (百年醤油らうめん) features a clear pork-and-chicken broth with vegetables, seasoned with Yamasa soy sauce — the same producer reportedly used by Rairaiken in 1910.
The soup is relatively light in body but has a surprisingly pronounced pork character and bold soy sauce flavor.
Even the noodles were carefully researched. They’re thin and straight, made using wheat with genetic ties to varieties believed to have been used more than a century ago.
The toppings also reflect the restaurant’s Chinese roots, including Cantonese-style roasted pork and traditionally prepared menma.
What Does Ramen from 1910 Taste Like?
I’ve eaten countless bowls of shoyu ramen across Japan, but Rairaiken genuinely surprised me.
It tastes distinctly old-school (in like a fermented kind of way), yet unlike the traditional Tokyo shoyu ramen I’m familiar with. There’s a deep, savory quality to the broth that’s difficult to describe. It almost feels like ramen from another universe — or perhaps another century.
I wonder if the Yamasa soy sauce is partly responsible for that unique flavor, or if it’s something else. Whatever the reason, I loved it.
Of course, nobody can say with certainty that this is exactly what ramen tasted like in 1910. But if it comes close, it’s a fascinating glimpse into the early days of Japanese ramen.
Is Asakusa Rairaiken Worth Visiting?
Absolutely. Beyond its historical significance, Rairaiken serves a genuinely delicious bowl of shoyu ramen that stands apart from modern styles.
The restaurant has friendly service and table seating, making it an easy stop while exploring Asakusa.
For ramen enthusiasts, it’s a rare opportunity to experience a piece of ramen history — not just through photographs or stories, but through an actual bowl. Map Link
