Marue Chuka Soba - Refined Shio and Shoyu Ramen in Sugamo
- Frank
- Aug 2, 2020
- 2 min read
Updated: Jan 17
For ramen in Sugamo, Marue Chuka Soba (まるえ中華そば) has quietly become one of the area’s and Tokyo'sfinest shops.
While it first made waves for its clear, golden shio ramen, Marue is just as compelling if you order the shoyu.
Some Background on Marue Chuukasoba
Marue is run by Emoto Masahiro, someone who I've personally known for years. Expectations were high from day one, and the location only added to that pressure. Marue took over the former space of Tsuta, Tokyo’s first Michelin-starred ramen shop.
Since opening in July 2020, Marue hasn’t stayed static. The shop has steadily refined its approach. It’s a place that feels calm and confident. This is very much a reflection of Emoto-san’s experience.
Shio Ramen and Shoyu Ramen
Marue’s shio ramen is bright, clear, and self-assured. The soup is pork, chicken and fish and is punchy without being aggressive, clean without feeling thin. The golden broth has a clarity that invites you to keep sipping, never weighing you down.
The shoyu ramen takes a slightly more layered approach. Compared to the shio, the broth leans into a gentle tang and deeper seasoning, thanks to a carefully constructed tare. It adds complexity and definition, even if it softens the soup’s pristine clarity just a touch.
There’s a natural meaty sweetness running through the bowl, amplified by the generous amount of negi (spring onions) floating in the soup. The noodles at Marue change frequently, reflecting Emoto-san’s constant experimentation, but recently they’ve leaned closer to what you’d find in Shirakawa or broader Fukushima-style ramen.
In particular, Emoto-san draws inspiration from Tora Shokudo, a true powerhouse of the style, favoring high-hydration noodles that cook quickly yet retain plenty of character.
The Chashu Steals the Show
No matter which bowl you choose, the chashu pork is unforgettable.
Marue serves massive slabs of pork chashu (belly and shoulder cuts), cooked in a tandoor-style clay oven. The edges are lightly singed, giving off a subtle smokiness that gradually melts into the soup as you eat. Over time, that clear broth deepens in color, picking up extra richness and aroma from the pork.
Closing Thoughts
Marue Chuukasoba feels exactly like what you’d expect from Emoto-san: calm, precise, and excellent. It doesn’t try to overwhelm you with options or gimmicks. Instead, it focuses on doing a few things extremely well.
For ramen in Sugamo, Marue didn’t just add another shop to the neighborhood - it raised the bar.
